Moldova is a landlocked country at the northern edge of the Balkans, wedged between Romania and Ukraine. It has historically also been known as Moldavia, Black Wallachia, and Bessarabia. Over the centuries it has exchanged hands between the Ottoman Turks, the Russian Empire, Romania, and eventually the Soviet Union before declaring its independence in 1991.

While en route to Romania during my Balkans trip, I spent a couple of days in Moldova’s capital Chișinău’s city center and its tree lined boulevards. With the main attractions within walking distance, I was able to quickly visit the Triumphal Arch, Cathedral Park, and monument to King Stefan. I also strolled through Valea Morilor park, a space of green respite right in the center of the city, with great views of the lake and surrounding hills.

The highlight of my trip to Moldova though was a wine tasting bike tour of the underground cellars at Milestii Mici winery. Moldova has a storied wine making tradition stretching back over 5000 years, and in the 20th century it was the largest producer of wines for the Soviet Union when it was part of the USSR. Today Milestii Mici holds the Guinness Record for the largest wine collection in the world, with over 2 million bottles stored in its 200km of underground tunnels! The tunnels were first created during limestone excavation activities, and the cool temperatures turned out to be perfect for wine storage, which first began here in 1968.

My guide Fabio and I hopped on our bikes and zipped through the tunnels for an informative 5km ride flanked by wine casks and cellars full of tightly packed bottles. It was mind boggling to see countless bottles of wine stored in the subterranean niches, stacked from floor to ceiling in the seemingly never ending tunnels. The underground roads that we biked though were each named after specific grape varietals, so it was fun to slowly cycle through lanes named Zinfandel, Chardonnay, etc. The reward at the end of my tour was a generous tasting of the flagship Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and 18 year aged Margaritar dessert wines – accompanied by a delectable Moldovan charcuterie spread.

Definitely one of the most unique wine tasting adventures I’ve ever experienced!