5 days exploring Helsinki, Finland

For baby A’s first international trip, we decided to get ambitious and visit a few of the Scandinavian and Baltic states. After the long haul from Portland to Helsinki (which baby A thankfully slept through most of), we were exhausted yet excited to explore all that the capital of Finland had to offer. All we knew of Finland before this trip was that it was the land of Nokia, Finlandia vodka, Saunas, and Angry Birds – so there was definitely much to learn and absorb!

Helsinki consistently ranks among the most livable cities in the world, and we quickly found out why. The city prides itself on its functional design, is really clean, and has plenty of greenery and parks. The Finnish sustainability mindset was evident in the bike paths that criss cross each neighborhood, and the mind boggling options on various recycling bins. The trendy design district that we stayed in had century old cafes, great restaurants, various museums and art galleries on offer. It was also centrally located and was a perfect base for our 5 day stay in Helsinki. Here are the main sights and attractions that we explored and marveled at during our short trip.

Uspenski Cathedral

We started our Helsinki sightseeing at the Uspenski Cathedral, which sits on the Katajanokka island east of the city center. Finland was till 1917 occupied by Tsarist Russia, and the Russian influence was clearly evident for this Greek Orthodox Church – with its red brick walls, green copper roof and golden domes. There are 13 total domes/cupolas, symbolizing Christ and his 12 apostles. The interior of the cathedral is even more stunning, with its opulent wooden screen of icons, huge chandeliers, and extremely detailed geometrically designed fresco art.

Uspenski Cathedral stands out with its red, green and gold colors

Glistening golden domes of the Uspenski Cathedral

Screen of icons towers over the altar

Stunning artwork dominates the interior and dome of the Cathedral

Cathedral to Cathedral view – Uspenski to Tuomiokirkko

Play time after Church time

Tuomiokirkko Helsinki Cathedral

Taking center stage at the Senaatintori Central square is the Tuomiokirkko (Helsinki Cathedral), probably the most iconic of Helsinki’s sights. This imposing Lutheran Church towers over the square from its raised location. The church was originally built in honor of Tsar Nicholas during the Russian rule, and was then known as St Nicholas church. After independence it was renamed Helsinki Cathedral. The exterior of the church is bright white and the only dash of color comes from its golden star decorated green domes. 12 large zinc statues on the roof representing the 12 apostles watch over the square and city. Compared to the Uspenki Cathedral, Tuomiokirkko’s interior is almost spartan – devoid of any major ornaments or decorations, save for an organ and giant chandelier.

Tuomiokikko’s imposing facade overlooking Central Square

Family pose in front of the Cathedral and statue of Tsar Alexander II

Green domes of the cathedral atop the white structure

Almost spartan interior of the Cathedral

Sibelius monument

This abstract sculpture was commissioned to honor Finnish composer Jean Sibelius, and is situated in its namesake park along the seashore of Toolo neighborhood – just a short 20 minute tram ride away from the main city center. The hundreds of hollow steel pipes that make up the sculpture are meant to represent organ pipes, although Sibelius was more of a violinist – and hence this ended up being a controversial installation when inaugurated in 1967. To placate the critics, the sculptor eventually added a giant mask of Sibelius next to the steel pipe sculpture. We strolled around the park grounds and nearby seashore, waiting patiently for the hordes of tour bus tourists taking their selfies in front of the monument to move along, before duly obliging with our self indulgent mugshots too.

Sibelius steel sculpture and mask

Alien rocket ship exhausts, or monument to a musician?

Walking path along the sea shore by Sibelius Park

Temppeliaukio Rock Church

After a short walk from Sibelius park, we arrived at the Rock church, which is a stunning Lutheran church that is hewn out of solid rock. The circular dome is created from more than 20km of copper wire and the plentiful skylights ensure the church is always illumined with natural light. A giant pipe organ and altar made of an ice-age crevice adorn the interior walls. The unfinished rock walls apparently give the church amazing acoustics, and it is frequently used as a concert venue.

Stunning sun lit interior of the Rock Church

Copper wire roof and walls hewn out of solid rock

Kamppi Chapel of Silence

The Chapel of Silence is a unique modernist take on a church, and is a great destination if you are looking for some solitude in the hustle and bustle of Kamppi shopping district. The clean lines of Scandinavian design are evident on the curved exterior that is made up of bent Nordic spruce strips. We ventured into the chapel hoping for a few minutes of silent meditation – but baby A decided that was an opportune moment to let out a high pitched squeal, which forced us to make a hasty and embarrassing exit.

Chapel or mini Noah’s Ark?

Helsinki Central Station

One of our sight seeing stops seemed like an unlikely tourist destination – the train station. However the impressive art nouveau inspired Helsinki central station is one of the most visited locations in Helsinki, given that is is the transportation nerve center of the city. The station building is considered one of the most beautiful train stations in the world. The pink granite facade, green copper roofing, four sided clock tower, and pairs of globe bearing giants flanking the entrance give the station a gothic view reminiscent of Batman’s Gotham city.

Main entrance to the station

Gotham City or Helsinki?

These dudes must work out a ton

Suomenlinna Sea Fortress

The island of Suomenlinna is probably the most visited of Helsinki’s attractions. The island is a short ferry ride away from Helsinki harbor, and is famous for its UNESCO World Heritage status sea fortress. Construction of the fortress began in the mid 18th century when Finland was still part of the Swedish Kingdom, and was then known as Sveaborg (fortress of Sweden). During the Finnish war of 1808 the fortress was taken over by the Russian army, and did not return to Finland till after it gained independence in 1917. After landing at Suomenlinna jetty, we leisurely strolled the 1.5km trail to the southern end of the island while taking in the greenery and well preserved fortress sights. Along the way to King’s Gate we were rewarded with seascape views of the mainland and the remnants of the artillery and cannon bastions that once guarded the fort. We even managed to grab a bite in a restaurant tucked within the old fortress walls before heading back to the mainland.

Kings Gate at the southern end of the fort

Suomenlinna fortress walls flanking the shores of the Gulf of Finland

Burial monument to Count Augustin Ehrensvärd, Field Marshall and architect of the Sveaborg Fortress

Old cannons along the sea bank are reminders of the fortress’s original defensive purpose

Esplanade Park

The green spaces of Esplanade Park are a great place to relax, hang out, and people watch right in the center of the city. Plenty of cafes and restaurants line the edges of the park, and the park extends all the way to the Kauppatori market area – which makes it great for leisurely strolls.

Center of Esplanade Park

People watching headquarters

At the Kauppatori end of the park

What & Where to eat

Not knowing much about Finnish cuisine, we were pleasantly surprised by the variety and flavors on offer. Before it became common place elsewhere, Finns were already focused on sourcing organic and seasonal fresh ingredients – and it showed in all the meals we enjoyed. Here are a few of the Helsinki restaurants and Finnish foods that we tried out and enjoyed.

Cafe Karl Fazer

Kluuvikatu 3, 00100 Helsinki, Finland (https://www.fazer.fi/en)